Are bespoke Suits Worth it?
Are bespoke suits worth it? We’ll go through why bespoke suits are peak luxury
Key Takeaways
- Every suit is one of one
- Superior fit because of original patterns
- Hand stitching lasts longer than machine
- Hand-stitched lapel roll
- Multiple fittings with more flexibility
- Made from luxury fabrics
A bespoke suit is designed with an original paper-pattern, so no
A Unique Pattern With No Template
Bespoke suits are made with an original pattern. That’s what makes them so unique.
Everything else, like made-to-measure and ready-to-wear, are built with pre-made templates.
Which means there are compromises.
The jacket might fit your shoulders, but the arm hole might be too high, or the chest too tight, or the jacket too short.
The reason is the factory model.
When a suit is made in a factory, it’s being designed to fit as many people as possible.
Which means it fits nobody.
But with bespoke, every pattern is unique and not a modified template, so no matter what the body shape is, a pattern can be made to create a perfectly fitted suit.
Hand Stitched To Last Forever
At the 1701 workshop outside of Napoli, Italy, a small group of master tailors, who have been making bespoke suits for decades, stitch every single seam by hand.
On average it takes a tailor 50 hours to craft a single suit.
It not only turns every suit into a work of art.
Hand stitching also makes a bespoke suit last decades.
Machine stitching pulls threads tight.
This creates tension that wears down fabric, and also doesn’t flex when stressed.
Which can cause the threads to snap.
With hand stitching, there is natural slack which allows the seams to flex instead of snap.
This is why bespoke suits last for decades.
A Beautiful Lapel Roll
Because a bespoke suit is made by hand, it lasts longer than a made-to-measure or ready-to-wear. Machine stitching puts too much tension on the threads, which can cause them to eventually snap. A hand-stitched suit isn’t sewn as tight, so it’s able to flex when placed under stress.
You can always tell a bespoke suit by one thing: the roll of the lapel.
This is done with the pad stitch.
This stitch resembles a herringbone pattern and slightly pulls the fabric in on itself.
Repeating the pad stitch over and over creates the roll of a jacket’s lapel, which is gentle and clean.
But it’s a long and arduous task.
Something that can’t be replicated in a factory.
So in order for made-to-measure and ready-to-wear factories to quickly make a suit, they use a pad stitch machine, which simulates the bespoke’s roll.
However, it can only partly mimc the roll because it doesn’t cover as much area on the front of the jacket.
The larger the area of the pad stitch, the more the lapel will roll.
But because the pad stitch machine creates such a tight stitch, it can’t cover as much area.
Which means it doesn’t create as gentle of a roll.
The lapel roll is one of those details you can’t unsee when you first notice it.
Multiple Fittings Are Crucial
One of the most undermentioned aspects of a bespoke suit is how important of a role multiple fittings play in reaching the perfect fit.
Usually, there are four appointments in the bespoke process:
- The Initial Appointment
- The First Fitting
- The Second Fitting
- The Third Fitting
During the Initial Appointment, measurements are taken and fabrics are chosen,
After that, the pattern maker begins drafting the pattern.
Then there is the First Fitting.
This is when the suit has been temporarily stitched together, and we can see exactly what changes need to be made to the pattern to achieve the perfect balance.
The coat might be too long in the front with someone who is forward leaning, or the shoulder angle might be cut too square, causing fabric to pool in the chest and underneath the arm.
And because the suit is only temporarily stitched together, the shoulder slope, and pitch of the jacket can be corrected perfectly, ensuring a proper fit.
Fabrics & Details Just For You
Flexibility in choosing between thousands of fabrics means you can customize your wardrobe to meet your lifestyle.
Lastly, bespoke offers you to choose fabrics that perfectly meet your needs.
Do you typically run warm and tend to perspire a lot?
Then you can choose a fabric that is lighter in weight, allowing you to breathe more.
Do you need a bespoke suit specifically for winter?
Then you can choose fabrics, like flannels or heavy weight wools that can keep you warmer.
Do you travel a lot?
Then you can choose fabrics that don’t wrinkle as easy and have more natural stretch.
Because each bespoke suit is made for you, you get to choose the fabrics that work best for your daily life and how you like to wear suits.
And the more you know about fabrics, the more you can customize your wardrobe.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a bespoke suit cost?
We start at $10,000 for a two-piece suit, but the price is largely determined by fabric selection. We have very robust fabrics as well as luxury fabrics; it largely depends on how this suit is going to fit into your life.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO MAKE A BESPOKE SUIT?
The process typically takes three months to complete. This includes the initial appointment all the way up to the final fitting.
Each piece of the suit is made by hand, and more fittings are conducted which requires at least twice the amount of time as a made-to-measure suit.
Does a bespoke suit actually look different in person?
Yes. Outside of the obvious lapel roll, the balance of the suit will be perfect. This means the front and back part of the jacket will be even lengths, the back of the jacket will fit perfectly to the curve of the spine, the trouser’s crease will be perfectly in line with the wearer’s leg, and the crease in the back of the legs will be nearly unbroken.
Why do men who experience bespoke suits rarely go back?
Once you experience a suit made exactly for your posture, shoulders, and movement, everything else feels compromised. The fit is calmer, the lines are cleaner, and the suit stops demanding your attention. For most men, bespoke resets their standard for what clothing should feel like.
Ready For Your True bespoke suit?
Our bench-made bespoke suits start with a blank sheet. Every pattern is drawn by hand, every suit cut from the world’s finest Italian and English fabrics, and each one requires over 50 hours of dedicated handwork. We hold fitting appointments in Detroit, New York, and Los Angeles, with other cities available upon request.
Only 100 bespoke suits are made per year, so inquire below for availability.
