Benefits of Bespoke Tailoring

Hand Drawn Patterns

After a thorough measuring process, each bespoke suit begins with a bespoke pattern maker drafting the blueprint of your suit.

Unlike most clothes, the pattern on a bespoke suit is drafted without the use of templates, otherwise known as blocks.

Using blocks has its limitations in terms of the fit and customizations. Since they are pre-made, they are designed to fit as many people as possible, so they may not be flexible enough to accommodate your unique body.

But a bespoke suit uses an original pattern which unlocks unlimited customizations and fits.

Because the suits is being drafted just for your body, every piece of the suit is made with your proportions in mind, from the lapel width to the pocket width to the button point.

And it allows you to add more customizations to your suit such as lowering your gorge line, adding curves to your pockets, or increasing the belly of your lapel.

Perfecting Balance

In addition to customizations, the bespoke process addresses one of the most important concepts of a perfect fit; the balance.

The balance is how a suit lays on your shoulders, back chest, arms, and a few other places.

Everyone’s posture and imbalances are different, so a suit lays and falls on them differently.

Bespoke pattern making is able to address these balance issues before any stitch has been made through the pattern making process.

Because bespoke pattern making is just for you, the curve of your back, length of your torso, and the size of your neck are just some aspects that contribute to creating your unique pattern.

The first fitting occurs about a month after your initial appointment, and is the first opportunity to wear the suit,

But, the suit is only held together with temporary stitches, so a lot about the suit can be changed.

For example, we may fine tune your shoulder slope, lower or raise the front or back half of the jacket, adjust the trouser rise, the jacket’s chest may be brought in or let out, etc.

All of these operations ensure each bespoke suit fits you perfectly, and is only possible because the entire process is built around you and a template built for someone else.

Hand Stitching is Built to Last

Bespoke suits are almost entirely stitched by hand.

And a little-known benefit of hand stitching, outside of its beauty, is its ability to last.

Hand stitching doesn’t put the same tension on threads as much as machine stitches, which over time, make a bespoke suit last much longer than a made to measure or ready to wear suit.

Those suits use high-tension machine stitches, which make the threads stiffer and more taught.

When under pressure, these threads don’t flex as much as a hand stitch and can result in busted seams.

But because a bespoke suit is hand stitched, it can flex with tension and lasts a lot longer without needing any repair.

The Famous Lapel Roll

The lapel roll is one of the treasured aspects of any bespoke suit, and is only made possible through hand stitching.

While creating the lapel, the fabric is gently pulled on itself through small stitches called the pad stitch.

The pad stitch is then repeated dozens of times to create a gentle roll of the lapel that can’t be recreated by a machine.

Bespoke lapel rolls can be spotted by bespoke tailors and create an elegant 3d look of presence that set it apart from every other garment.

More Seam Allowance

Every suit comes with extra fabric along most seams, which allows it to be let out if you gain weight, known as the seam allowance.

Made-to-measure and ready-to-wear suits usually only have a small amount of seam allowance because of economical reasons.

Suit factories are always looking for ways to save money, and by using less fabric for seam allowance, they can cut more suits out of a bolt of fabric.

In contrast, bespoke suits are usually made in small workshops where instead of thousands of suits being made each year, only hundreds are made, and can afford to add extra fabric for seam allowances.

And because of this, a bespoke suit can be worn for decades because they can be changed along with your body as you age.

So even if you gain 20 lbs over the next 10-20 years, the suit can still be altered to fit you and still look great.