Why True Bespoke Suits Are So Rare
Bespoke suits are rare because even companies claiming to be bespoke aren’t bespoke
Key Takeaways
- “Bespoke” companies are using pre-made templates
- Made to measure companies call themselves bespoke
- Bespoke suits are made in workshops, not factories
A bespoke suit is designed with an original paper-pattern, so no
They’re Not Telling You The Patterns Are Pre-Made
The dirty secret no bespoke tailor wants to talk about: most bespoke patterns are made from pre-made templates.
That’s right.
The businesses that priding themselves on a hand drawn patterns, are actually tracing patterns and modifying them.
You may ask; but isn’t that just made-to-measure? Yes. Yes it is.
This kills the true essence of bespoke.
Bespoke is about the art of making the suit as much as it is about wearing the suit.
That’s why 1701’s bespoke suits are only made with original patterns, not traced from pre-made templates.
I hand draw the patterns using traditional Savile Row methods, calculating every seam based solely on my clientele.
I wish this were more commonplace, but it isn’t.
Made to Measure Companies Call Themselves Bespoke
The term bespoke has become bastardized.
Everyone uses it for everything.
There are bespoke cars, furniture, vacations. Even bespoke soups.
While it’s fine to call a furniture that’s made specifically for you, it’s nearly criminal for a made to measure suit to call itself bespoke.
Made to measure and bespoke are two entirely different processes.
One uses original, unique patterns and skilled artisans hand stitching every seam.
While the other is using pre-made patterns modified by a computer, and sewn together using high-tech sewing machines.
To call these two the same thing destroys the term bespoke..
The tell is the price point; there are no bespoke suits for $299.
It takes tens of hours of work to sew a bespoke suit. And if you’re paying $299, you’re not getting that.
This is another reason a bespoke suit is so rare; anyone that offers it is more than likely offering made to measure.
Bespoke Suits Are Made in Workshops, Not Factories
The last reason bespoke suits are so rare is because they’re made in workshops by skilled artisans.
They can only do so many suits per year.
1701 can only offer 100 suits per year.
There is a cap on how many suits a small team, under 10, can produce in a single day.
Not only that, but the art of bespoke is dying.
Fewer people are learning how to pattern make and how to hand stitch.
While 150 years ago, every suit was bespoke, these days it’s actually hard to find companies that adhere to traditional creation methods.
The reason 1701 exists is to serve the people that truly appreciate the craft.
That value the art of creation as much as a perfectly fitting suit.
Frequently Asked Questions
If made-to-measure fits well, why would someone still choose true bespoke?
Because bespoke is about balance, posture, asymmetry, and how the garment behaves as you move and age. Bespoke patterns account for things most MTM systems can’t detect or correct, and because the bespoke suit process is iterative over more fittings, it can fine tune details MTM can’t.
Does an original paper pattern really change the final result that much?
Yes. An original pattern allows the coat to be built around your body’s proportions rather than forcing your body into a pre-existing framework. This affects shoulder slope, chest shape, sleeve pitch, and overall harmony in ways templates can’t replicate.
Why don’t more tailors still draft patterns the traditional way?
It’s slow, difficult, and unscalable. Pattern drafting for bespoke takes a long time to learn and it takes a long time to make a single pattern. Most businesses choose efficiency and volume over mastery, because true bespoke doesn’t work well as a growth model.
Who is true bespoke actually for—and who should avoid it?
Bespoke is for clients who value craft, process, and long-term refinement as much as appearance. If someone wants speed and trend-driven styling, made to measure is usually the better choice.
Secure Your Bespoke Suit Fitting
Every suit begins with a hand-drawn pattern, crafted from the finest fabrics in Italy and England, and shaped with more than 50 hours of work. Schedule your fitting today in Detroit, New York, or Los Angeles. Other locations available upon request.
Only 100 bespoke suits are made per year, so inquire below for availability.
